Continuing with the suspicious carburetor, I tried using Nejisaurus

Well, yesterday I had a half-day off from work.

The Danish guys went to Fukuoka so I was free.

So I decided to poke around at a junk flat valve carburetor.

There were a few places where the screws were stuck with rust and couldn't be removed.

Also, there were some places where hex lobe screws were used.

(I understand that it means not to disassemble it (lol))

So I went to the hardware store.

I looked around for tools and pondered.

I could just buy a bit to get the hex lobes, but the problem was the screws that were stuck with rust.

As a cheapskate junk guy, I wanted to take the right approach and cut the grooves with a file and then use a shock driver, but the cost of the tools I needed was easily over 2000 yen.

And I already had all of them in the garage...

While I was thinking about it, I saw a trial product in the "Nejisaurus" corner...

It seemed like it would work when I tried it out.

This was also expensive, but I'd been interested in it for a while.

I probably won't use it often, but I bought the most compact one.

Let's get started. I'll start with the M4 on this top cover. Just to be sure, I sprayed some penetrating lubricant on it...

It worked.

Next is the float chamber. People who work on NS-series carbs say that this part is often stuck.

It worked. Even after spraying lubricant, it didn't penetrate at all... I think it's probably because the screw holes go all the way through and rust is occurring from the outside, and there's also something to do with the structure of the car body.

Anyway, now I can take the carb apart again with peace of mind.

The most difficult part is the third carb.

I'll just whip it out with a hex lobe.

Yes, I was able to separate it. However, it turns out that the reason the link shaft was stiff is because the body as a whole wasn't distorted, but only the part where the shaft goes in is deformed. To fix it, I need some simple measuring equipment such as a surface plate and calipers, and a drill or router, so for now I just removed the part of the broken cover.

Now, after removing the float chamber...

It smells like rotten gasoline. It's a nostalgic smell for a junk guy♪

Well, this won't work with a parts cleaner, so I'll use engine conditioner, being very careful not to splash it.

The throttle valve is also disassembled. It has the same link structure as the FCR and CR. However, there are left and right grooves on the shaft on the throttle valve side (for easy position control by a spring), and the needle and shaft are prevented from falling out by a spring seat with an unusual shape, so you have to be careful.

In the end, I took it apart one by one and cleaned it up.

It's helpful to have a hair dryer. (I wiped off the dirt properly. Please don't try this at home (lol))

It's so much cleaner than it was at first.

I checked the choke link again and found a steel ball in it, so I cleaned it and set it again.

I also replaced several bolts of the same size.

There are still many areas that need maintenance, such as damage and dirt, but that's about it for now.

Again, please don't ask me why I'm doing this (lol)